Even though we recommend 40 liters (10.5 US gallons, 8.8 Imperial gallons) per specimen if raising Angels in ordinary community tanks, breeding tanks must be larger because newborns produce excrements, there’s usually more uneaten food, and filtration isn’t that effective since the recommended filtration system for a breeding tank is a sponge filter. Sponge filters can be highly effective, but external canister or HOB filters are definitely better in terms of water quality.

A short summary: An Angelfish tank shouldn’t be smaller than 100 liters (26 US gallons, 22 Imperial gallons), a group of 6 of these fish should be given preferably 400 liter tank (105 US gallons, 88 UK gallons).

Food and feeding

Angelfish prefer flakes over granules or pellets, however diet of your fish must not be monotonous, therefore offer them a wide variety of foods including frozen larvae, worms or insects (live should be preferred, frozen food must be defrost before offered to the fish). Brine shrimp or Daphnia are too loved by these cichlids as much as fry of Guppies, Swordtails or Mollies will be eaten if left with Angels. Additionally offer your fish dried foods, however don’t base the diet on dried foods as these ounts of proteins and other important substances. It’s a widely known fact that the dried food contains less proteins than raw or frozen worms/larvae, so make sure that especially juvenile specimens are fed on high-protein diet. High-protein diet is crucial when breeding these fish as they’re known for producing more eggs if fed properly (the number of laid eggs and frequency of reproduction also depends on temperature, more kik to be found below in the paragraph named Breeding).

Angelfish aren’t messy eaters, they usually eat only a little and should be fed once or twice a day. As they’re not the smallest fish available, their stomachs are big enough to store enough food – Adult Angelfish can survive even 2 weeks without food, however you shouldn’t let them starve for over a week. Juvenile specimens should be fed two or three times a day, naturally young fish shouldn’t starve as it could negatively affect their growth rate and their health.

Feel free to download our video showing how Angelfish go after black mosquito larvae: download by clicking here (approximately 55 MB).

Suitable tankmates

Guppies and Neon tetras should be avoided because Angelfish will hunt them. Neon tetras are part of Angels’ diet in the wild, and Guppies are notorious fin nippers – Angels won’t tolerate this and will strike back. Any peaceful fish that originates from South America rivers is a suitable tank mate as long as it doesn’t fit Angel’s mouth.

If you’re adding new Angelfish into an aquarium with at least 1 Angel that’s there already, introduce the new one after feeding time, preferably when lights are turned off.

Breeding

Most Angels will reach sexual maturity at the age of 10-12 months, this is the approximate age when females lay eggs for the first time – and they’re able to lay eggs once per month, however this statement can’t be taken as rule since fish often need a break after breeding constantly for a period that lasts 3-4 months for example. Females are able to lay eggs no matter whether there’s a male present in the tank or not, this prevents the females from becoming egg-bloated. As sexing Angelfish is impossible (males tend to grow larger than females though), fish will pair up naturally.

• Live or frozen larvae, small insects (flies), worms should be offered to your Angelfish
• Increase the temperature to 28°C or 29°C (82°F-84°F)